Gyeongju: Korea's Museum Without Walls

Some places make you feel as though you've stepped into another time, and Gyeongju is one of them.

Scattered across the city are enormous grassy mounds that might look like ordinary hills at first glance. Except they aren't. They're royal tombs, some dating back more than a thousand years. Ancient observatories, temples, palace grounds and historic bridges are all part of the landscape. And somehow, all of this exists alongside modern-day life.

Gyeongju was the capital of the Silla Kingdom for almost a thousand years, from 57 BC to AD 935. Silla eventually unified much of the Korean peninsula, and many things we now associate with traditional Korean culture, including Buddhist art and those famous gold crowns, have their roots here.

It's often called a museum without walls, and once you're there, it's easy to understand why. You don't have to visit a museum to find history. You simply walk through the city and stumble upon it.

Three separate areas in Gyeongju are recognised by UNESCO: Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto, the Gyeongju Historic Areas and Yangdong Folk Village.

While Seoul, Busan and Jeju tend to feature on most first-time South Korea itineraries, Gyeongju is sometimes left out. We almost could have missed it too, and I'm glad we didn't. It's an easy addition to a trip from Busan and, even with limited time, there's plenty to see.

Our day in Gyeongju: A little trip back in time

We left Busan on a Sunday morning, which happened to be the final day of the Hangeul Day long weekend. We had our carry-on backpacks with us and a loose plan for the day.

We spent the morning around Haeundae, walking along the beachfront and Mipo Square making our way to Gyeongju by intercity bus. We chose the intercity bus over the KTX train because we'd heard it offered better views of the countryside.

Our accommodation for the night was Gyeongju Hanok 1st, a traditional hanok guesthouse about a 15-minute walk from Hwangnidan-gil. Staying close to the old town meant we could drop off our bags and head out to explore without worrying too much about transport.

Daereungwon: Walking among the royal tombs

Our first stop was Daereungwon, a historic park in the middle of the city, home to enormous grassy mounds that are actually the burial sites of Silla royalty and nobles.

Twenty-three kings, queens and nobles are buried here. Seeing the mounds scattered across the landscape is quite something. They look almost like natural hills until you notice their perfectly rounded shapes and realise what lies beneath them.

One of the tombs, Cheonmachong, is open to visitors. You can actually step inside and see how a royal tomb was constructed, as well as learn about the treasures discovered there, including one of Silla's famous gold crowns.

It's quite a different experience from looking at historical artefacts behind glass. You're standing inside a burial site that has been preserved for centuries, getting a glimpse into the lives and burial customs of the Silla Kingdom.

Cheomseongdae: A little piece of astronomical history

From Daereungwon, it's a short walk across the open lawns to Cheomseongdae.

Built during the 7th century, this bottle-shaped stone structure is believed to have been used as an astronomical observatory. It's considered one of the oldest surviving observatories in East Asia.

I'll admit, it's smaller than you might imagine. But knowing that it's been standing there for almost 1,400 years makes you stop and appreciate it a little longer.

It's also one of those places where you don't need to spend hours exploring. Just take a moment to look around and appreciate the history surrounding you. But we ended up coming back here at night for the light show. Seeing it all lit up was a completely different experience!

Hwangnidan-gil: Exploring the old town

By late afternoon, we made our way to Hwangnidan-gil, one of Gyeongju's most popular streets.

This area is known for its traditional hanok-style buildings, little independent shops, bakeries and restaurants. It's a lovely place to wander around, browse the shops and get a feel for the city's more contemporary side.

One thing you shouldn't leave without trying is Gyeongju bread. These little round buns are filled with sweet red bean paste and are one of the city's best-known specialities.

It's also a good place to pick up a few souvenirs before continuing your walk around the historic centre.

Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond

As the day drew to an end, we headed towards Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond.

Donggung Palace was once part of the Silla royal palace complex, while Wolji Pond served as a beautiful garden setting for royal banquets and important occasions.

Today, the reconstructed pavilions are illuminated after sunset, creating beautiful reflections across the still water. It's one of those places that's worth timing your visit around sunset so you can see the surroundings change as the lights come on.

Don't rush through this one. Give yourself enough time to walk around the pond and enjoy the views from different angles.

Woljeonggyo Bridge

We ended the day with the beautiful night views of Woljeonggyo Bridge, and it was such a lovely way to wrap up our time in Gyeongju.

Spanning the Namcheon Stream, this traditional wooden bridge dates back to the Unified Silla period. It once connected Wolseong Palace with the southern part of the kingdom. The original bridge was lost during the Joseon Dynasty and was carefully reconstructed using historical research. At around 61 metres long, its pavilion-style architecture and decorations are beautiful to see up close.

The one we missed: Bulguksa Temple

Our plan for the following morning was to visit Bulguksa Temple before catching the train to Seoul. Unfortunately, we didn't manage to fit it in.

It was one of the places I was particularly looking forward to seeing, so it's definitely on the list for another visit.

We eventually packed our bags and made our way to the station for the 13:30 KTX to Seoul. We'd spent less than a day in Gyeongju, but it was enough to make us wish we'd allowed a little more time.

And that's probably my biggest takeaway from this visit: Gyeongju deserves more than a quick stop if you can manage it.

If you're planning a visit, here's what I'd recommend

A little planning goes a long way in Gyeongju, especially if you're working with limited time.

Stay overnight if you can.

Many people visit Gyeongju as a day trip from Busan and leave before sunset. I'd recommend staying at least one night if your itinerary allows it. Some of the city's most beautiful sights, including Wolji Pond, Cheomseongdae and Woljeonggyo Bridge, look quite different after dark.

Choose accommodation near Hwangnidan-gil.

We stayed at Gyeongju Hanok 1st, which was around a 15-minute walk from Hwangnidan-gil. The old town's main attractions are close enough to explore on foot, so staying in this area makes getting around much easier.

Check your train station before travelling.

Gyeongju's KTX station was previously called Singyeongju Station, and you might still see that name in older travel guides. The station is outside the city centre, so remember to allow time for a bus or taxi.

Book bus tickets early during long weekends.

We travelled during a public holiday weekend, so transport required a little more planning. The Bustago booking app doesn't accept foreign cards, so you may need to purchase your tickets at the terminal. The train is another option, particularly if you prefer booking ahead.

When to visit

Spring is lovely for cherry blossoms, particularly around Bomun Lake.

October and November bring autumn colours, festivals and cooler temperatures. If you're planning evening walks, remember to pack an extra layer.

Visiting temples

Dress modestly and remove your shoes wherever requested. Pay attention to photography signs too. At Bulguksa, visitors are asked not to photograph the Buddhas.

A little more time in Gyeongju would have been nice

Gyeongju wasn't somewhere we had planned to spend a long time, but I'm glad we included it in our South Korea itinerary.

There's something quite different about exploring a place where so much of its history is still part of the landscape. The royal tombs, ancient observatory, palace grounds and illuminated bridge all give you a glimpse into a side of Korea that you might not experience if you stick to the bigger cities.

We only scratched the surface, and missing Bulguksa gives us a good reason to return.

If you're planning a trip to South Korea, I'd definitely recommend making room for Gyeongju. Even if you only have a day, it's worth the detour.